Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their younger generation do not want to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to learn these tales and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
